L2O Blog

Ayu

Ayu, or sweet fish, is part of the smelt family. It is caught by fly-fishing and is very popular in Japan during spring and summer season. It reminds me the sardines I used to eat, cooked over an outside grill during summer time. Just like the sardine, you can eat the ayu from head to tail. The first time I tried ayu fish was about 10 years ago and since then I've learned more on how to prepare them. I like the skin crispy and salty to contrast with the softness of the flesh. At the restaurant it is served very simply with lettuce and a touch of Macha powder. We skewer the fish in a wavy shape to recall the currant of the water and swimming in the river. It is seasoned with sea salt and grill over a robatayaki grill. 

Tomato Flesh Covered with his Own Natural Juice

Blanched tomato, quartered and cut into squares. Covered with tomato juice strained into a coffee filter and set with gelatin. It is a component of one of our dish; Heirloom tomato.

Grilling

Photo one: Pork belly, braised with white shoyu and mirin and flavored with katsuobushi, then sliced and grilled.

Photo two: Ayu, skewered in a wavy shape, seasoned with sea salt.

Photo three: Fish collar, seasoned with sea salt.

Binchō-tan

Binchō-tan or white charcoal is a traditional charcoal of Japan. It dates to the Edo period, when during the era, a craftsman named Bitchū-ya Chōzaemon began to produce it in Tanabe, Wakayama. The raw material is oak, specifically ubame oak, now the official tree of Wakayama Prefecture. Wakayama continues to be a major producer of high-quality charcoal, with the town of Minabe, Wakayama producing more binchō-tan than any other town in Japan. The fineness and high quality of binchō-tan are attributed to steaming at high temperatures. Although it is often thought that binchō-tan burns hot, it actually burns at a lower temperature than ordinary charcoal but for a longer period of time. It does not release smoke or other unpleasant flavors. From Wikipedia.

RobataYaki Grill Warming Up

Lychee, Curry, Blueberry

Lychee sorbet

Blueberry sorbet

Isomalt tube filled with fresh lychee

Emulsified lychee juice

Blueberry pearls

Freeze dry blueberry

Fresh blueberry

Yellow curry powder

Lychee, Curry, Blueberry Pearls

Blueberry gel made out of fresh blueberry and its own natural pectin, set into liquid nitrogeen as small pearls

Yellow curry powder

Whipped lychee juice with gelatin

Tubular Sorbet, Lychee-Blueberry

Isomalt Tubes

Heat isomalt in a pot to 180 degrees Celsius. Heat silicon cylinder molds in the oven at 85 degrees Celsius for 5 minutes. When the isomalt is ready, pour it into molds. When it stops bubbling, turn the mold upside down to drain the excess. Scrape the top of the mold with a small palate knife. Heat the palate knife with a torch and then smooth off tops of isomalt tubes. Carefully un-mold and store in an airtight container with silica gel.

Tomato in Its Own Water

Tomato water, from blended tomato, has transparency and the freshness of the fruit, just picked from the vine. It is like a clear stock and can be used in many ways, from being served as it is or mixed into more elaborated preparation. Its flavor just stands up well. 

Our amuse bouche are usually a single ingredient with very few garnishes. A clean note to start the meal with saltiness or spiciness. For this one, we set the tomato water and pour it into the bottom part of the spherical dome mold. We scoop out the center of the gelee to place in it a tiny peeled tomato. The top part of the mold is placed over and the tomato is encapsulated in its own water. Heirloom tomato seeds and a light cocktail sauce flavored with wasabi, garnish the tomato. Salt and olive oil are the final touches.